Initial Impressions: Rainaway
With an abundant variety of detailing products on the market, many companies try to differentiate themselves from the crowd. Rainaway is one of them, they offer products that are supposed to outperform and outlast Over-The-Counter(OTC) products. Do they work?
With an abundant variety of detailing products on the market, many companies try to differentiate themselves from the crowd. Rainaway is one of them, they offer products that are supposed to outperform and outlast Over-The-Counter(OTC) products.
They offer four different services, which are:
Nano Glass Coating
Nano Paint Coating – Premium
Nano Paint Coating – Diamond
Nano Titanium (Coats a surface to become anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and mold free. Used on interior surfaces)
These services are not available directly to the end user and can only be applied by detailing centres that offer Rainaway services.
This post will show how these products are applied as well as a small glimpse of whether they are worth it.
Read about my initial impressions after the jump!
Products that will be tested is the Nano Glass Coating and Nano Paint Coating(Premium series).
When you opt for the glass coating, the detailing centre will first clean the windscreen with an abrasive powder to remove any oil, grease, etched in waterspots as well as any previously applied products on the windscreen.
I applied the powder with a 4″ Lake Country CCS pad by hand.
As you can see below, the pattern show lines of waterspot etchings on the glass.
I then worked the product in until it does not show any lines or hydrophobic properties.
After rinsing and washing the powder off,
Crystal clear glass with no waterspots,
For the test, the entire front windscreen will be coated with Rainaway’s Nano Glass Coating. The rear windscreen will be split into half, with one half coated with Rainaway and the other with a very popular glass water repellant, Rain-X.
The Nano Glass Coating consists of two chemicals, F1 and F2, which have to be mixed together prior to application. I’m assuming that one if it is the hardener/catalyst.
The mixed solution is then applied with a cotton pad.
The removal process was vastly different between Rain-X and Rainaway Nano Glass Coating.
Rain-X is very much oilier and washing it off with soap and water is the best and cleanest option for removal, I tried that method with the side coated with Rainaway Nano Glass, it was hardly removed.
It had to be dry buffed and any remaining streaks cleaned off with a glass cleaner. Buffing it off was difficult indeed, it was dry and grabby.
Rainaway is also supposed to protect the glass from watermark etching. From my previous experience with Rain-X, it doesn’t do much for protecting in the long term, but it’s water repellency is pretty durable.
That’s all for now for the Nano Glass Coating.
Next product to be tested is Rainaway’s Nano Paint Coating – Premium series. The higher end version is the Diamond Series.
I prepped the paint with some Meguiar’s SwirlX on the Random Orbital Buffer. This was more than enough since it had a paint makeover a few weeks ago.
Dirt and contaminants removed from the paint,
The Bosch ROB may be an infant in the world of polishing machines, that doesn’t mean it’s unable to kick some butt on its own!
The Honda that had the full monty HERE, had suffered from severe watermark etchings.
However, frequent washing prevented the watermarks from being etched in too deep and was possible to be removed with only the Bosch ROB.
I also received instructions to remove any polishing oils on the surface prior to the application of Rainaway Nano Paint Coating.
So I washed the boot and bonnet with Osren Nano Wash, a basic shampoo without any wax or gloss enhancers. The roof wasn’t washed just to see if the oils would affect the durability of the coating.
All horizontal surfaces were then taped into half.
Products and process is as follow.
– Apply Duragloss #601 Polish Bonding Agent
– Apply 1st coat of Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish
– Wait half an hour and buff off
– Apply 2nd coat of Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish
– Apply 1st coat of Rainaway Nano Paint Coating(Premium)
– Wait half an hour and buff off
– Apply 2nd coat of Rainaway Nano Paint Coating(Premium)
Then during the buffing process, experienced the same thing as the glass coating. VERY difficult to buff off.
On the Duragloss(DG) side, as expected, it came off with ease and leaving a smooth, deep and even finish. On the Rainaway side, it’s like I had to buff through several layers of dried product.
Sorry for the poor picture below, but you can see on the right side(Rainaway) of the picture, the light reflection is not sharp.
The left side(Duragloss) just had light smearing that was removed with a fresh microfibre(MF) cloth.
This could be one of the reasons why it is not available for end users and have to be professionally applied.
In addition to the buffing process, the looks was also different. Now I belong to the camp of ‘looks is in the prep work’, whatever wax or sealant I put on afterwards is merely for protection.
On the DG side, it looked dark and wet. On the Rainaway side, it didn’t look as dark, this could also be due to the coating that I used, which was meant for metallic paint. Rainaway has another type meant for dark coloured vehicles.
Fast forward 2 days with an afternoon of heavy rain.
The bonnet is washed with shampoo, dried and the Rainaway side is buffed off again with a dry MF cloth. Even shampoo solution wouldn’t wash the excess product away!
After much difficulty, the finish was quite even and on par with the DG side.
The pictures are just to show their water beading characteristics, not a comparison as DG #105 isn’t a very strong beader in itself.
However, the Rainaway side repelled water VERY nicely whereas the DG side was a little bit slower. Even so, I do not blame it as that is how it is supposed to be.
Speaking about water beading, I’m one who believes that water beading is not the absolute indicator of protection as a cheap RM19 bottle of Soft99 Fusso Coat can repel water very well, but lacks in protection.
This is where Rainaway is supposed to differ, it’s meant to repel water greatly and at the same time provide great protection.
Although it is too early to tell, there were slight differences between the two halves. The DG side had very tiny waterspots whereas the Rainaway side was as clean as freshly polished paint.
In conclusion, my initial impressions of Rainaway is good, only if you do not have to apply it yourself. It is too early to evaluate it’s performance, therefore, do stay tuned and check back in 1-2 months time for the full product review of Rainaway with videos.
You can subscribe via e-mail HERE to receive notification of new posts. Don’t worry, your e-mail will remain anonymous to everyone including myself.
Thanks for looking!
Many thanks to Darren from Autowaxshop in Kuching, Sarawak for the Rainaway samples!
Feel free to post your comments, or maybe a prediction of the outcome below.
Experiences of current Rainaway users are highly appreciated!
p.s. Just in case anyone might get the wrong signal, there is NO intention to defame any product, person or company.
omg dude i want to do the glass thing!!!
my windscreen and rear windscreen very marked T___T
Hmm… the windscreen thing, will it make the wipers judder?
Come to my place one weekend man, I still have some of the powder left.
Good question, with Rain-X, it will judder. With Rainaway, it is not supposed to judder.
On my first windscreen, it created judder because of my wrong application technique.
On the second windscreen, application was correct, but it juddered because the wipers are very old already. I need to change the wipers first, and then update again.
Nice write up. hope u enjoy the prodycts and happy detailing! cheers!
Nicely done. Waiting for the outcome.
Any other OTC products that can remove watermarks from windscreens? Mine has very bad watermarks, and I've tried some in the market, but none effective ( requires extremely aggressive buffing ).
Thanks bro, this review wouldn't be possible without you!
Thanks a lot! I'm curious about the outcome too.
Hi there, if you have very bad watermarks, there are two options for you. First option is to use an acid, you can use this one side windows and rear windscreen. DO NOT use it on the front windscreen or side mirrors. Acids are quite effective and do not require much hard rubbing compared to abrasives.
If you want to try using an abrasive, an OTC product would be soft99 Glass Z Compound. It comes in a small grey bottle packaged with a rectangular dense foam applicator. The advantage about using an abrasive product to remove watermarks is that you can use it on all windows/windscreens, even side mirrors.
These are the two options. Other products such as Autoglym Glass Polish isn't aggressive enough. They are more suitable for cleaning and giving slight protection to the windscreen, think of it as an All-in-One for glass, instead of paint.
Hope I helped. 🙂
Sorry forgot to mention the OTC acid product. The name is Tomcat Watermark Remover, I'm not sure if it's still available. I bought mine from Eneos last time.
Hmm, yes. I remember the Tomcat. I didn't know it was acid-based, it didn't feel too acidic to me. I tried that before, but it was still pretty difficult to remove. My watermarks are THAT bad 🙂
By the way, why not acid on the front windscreen and side mirrors?
Oh ya, I forgot to mention one incident. There was once I had my car washed at a roadside car wash. The Indian guy asked if I wanted to remove watermarks, he said it's his own formula. It was in a mineral water bottle haha. He demonstrated on a small portion of my side window. Just a few seconds of rubbing and it came off! He assured me it's not acidic. He put some in my hands, it didn't feel acidic(but hey, maybe I have a wrong impression of acidity). I declined though.
Regarding it not to be used on the front windscreen has to do with scratches caused by the wipers. After using acid on them, it will 'reveal' the wiper scratches even more. Because there are a lot of tiny scratches on the windscreen, it will look like a haze. I've done this before one my own front windscreen and it was horrible!
About not using it on the side mirror, I am not too sure but it will turn black because the mirrors are made out of mercury?? Or something like that, this is what I've been told, don't dare to try it for myself yet, haha.
About your second comment, do you remember what colour is the liquid that is his 'own formula'? hehe… Aside from using acid or abrasive, I'm not aware of other alternative methods, sorry about that.
Ah ok, I will be careful with the front windscreen. Hazy windscreen doesn't sound very nice to drive with.
Coating on mirror these days probably uses silver and copper, rarely mercury. I suppose you are right, acid could react with the coating.
The liquid was slightly yellowish but clear. It was a bit bubbly on top. I did not have a good look at what he used to apply it. Could be some kind of abrasive cloth too.
Anyway, thanks for the info! Great site you have here. Would be nice if you have tutorials on how to detail, best practices etc. For example, how to clay well. 😀
Ahhh silver or copper, I didn't know that!
Slightly yellowish? Okay I have no clue what it is then, if it is red, then it could be Osren StainX.
Thanks for the compliments! Regarding claying, I created a short video on it. You can click on the 'Videos' tab above and scroll down. The name is 'How to use a clay bar'. do pardon the ULTRA poor quality and production. Haha. Thanks again!
Kenneth, any updates on your wiper test? I'm on PIAA wipers and it apparently leaves a layer of silicone on the windscreen so the water doesn't streak and beads up nicely. Also the wipers last forever supposedly. And cost a small fortune so if Rainx or whatever will screw it up, I'd rather not try.
Speaking of which, is there a way to remove Rainx?
Nope, I haven't changed the wipers yet. But it doesn't seem to judder even on old wipers.
If you are already using a wiper that beads up water, why the need for RainX?
If it wipes smoothly, then there's probably no need for it. You could apply it to the side windows or rear windscreen.
You can remove RainX with acid(Tomcat water mark remover) or abrasive glass compound(Soft99 Glass Z Compound).
Ah.. now only I know. I've already done the best solution – change windscreen.
product quality on fresh is very good! how long lasting in tropical country? how much for big saloon car??? I heard the price is about RM800-RM1200 and warranty 1 year???
Yes, I too, agree that the product is great when freshly applied. How long it will last and how well it protects in our climate is something that I'm still testing. My first test batch is actually over, but the results are questionable. So I'm re-testing it again.
For the price and warranty, you would have to ask detailing shops that provide Rainaway services.
Thanks for your comment.
What other OTC protection you recommend other than this Rainaway and Rain-x?
I can't find soft99 Glass Z Compound but bought the Glaco Glass Compound (which I think got the same substance). It works but I don't have any protection.
I just need something simple and re-appliable every time I wash my car. Rain-X? or something else. I'm in SG and we only have funny stuff like Waxco, Sonnax, AutoGlym, Meg (not full range),Zyrol and some others. Thanks.
RainX will make the glass very hydrophobic but only has little protection against water spotting. Besides these two products, I guess any other glass coating will do, although I have not tried other brands.
I remembered when I was in SG, I went to Autobacs at Bukit Batok, they had a lot of different glass coatings there. Carmate has their G3 and Soft99 has their Glaco range.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the tips.
I was looking high and low for soft99 Glass Z Compound and realised Glaco got a similar product call Glaco Glass Compound. I believed it's a rebrand since soft99 brand out Glaco to do all the glass related product.
I will check out G3 and Glaco again. You know Glaco, all japanese and staff at Autobacs not really helpful when it comes to detailing stuff.
“Huh? what protect, this Glaco Glass Compound can do the job already.” =_=
Yeah, the soft99 glass Z compound might be similar to the Glaco Glass Compound. My glass Z compound comes in a very thick brown liquid paste form, when rubbed between the finger, you can literally feel the rough abrasives, almost like sand.
Hahaha your comment about the Autobacs staff is funny!
Hey wanna ask what kind of powder that you're using?
The powder is one of two Rainaway's product for watermark removal. The other product is some kind of acid if I'm not mistaken.
Hi, where can you get this soft99 Glass Z Compound and how much is it? You mentioned it contained abrasive ingredients but wouldn't this cause swirls/scratches on your screen?
Pretty new to this, hope you can provide some pointers on what's the best way to use this product. Wouldn't want to inflict extra scratches on the screen. Thanks!
Not sure where in MY you can get soft99 Glass Z Compound. I can't find it in SG.
So end up buying Glaco Glass Compound from Autobacs in SG.
Maybe Kenneth can advise where to get softt99 or Glaco products in MY.
Glass are pretty resistance to scratches, unlike paint. So a little abrasive won't do any harm to the glass. Of course don't try the product on your plastic headlights cover, hehe.
Thanks please provide a step by step detailed explanation on how to use the Soft99 Glass Compound. Don't think I will understand those Japanese instruction on that product
Thanks for helping me to answer Anonymous' question!
Kimu is right about glass being much harder than paintwork. The abrasives in the glass compound wouldn't scratch the glass but if you use the same compound on paintwork, I can only imagine the damage being the same as scrubbing your paint with a 3M Scotchbrite pad.
I purchased my Soft99 Glass Z compound from Eneos 1Utama.
You would use compound the same as you would use a paint polish. You probably need to apply more pressure and give it a spritz of water when the compound starts to turn dry and powdery. The water will reactivate the abrasives in the compound.
You may have to repeat your application depending on what you are trying to achieve:
1 application – To give the glass a deep clean and remove any previously applied glass coatings.
2 or more applications – To remove waterspots from the glass. Acid would make the job easier, use a glass compound on where acid is not recommended to be used, such as front windscreens and wing mirrors.
Machine application – To remove shallow scratches or wiper mark scratches.
Thank you Kenneth for the detailed explanation. I guess the best way to polish the windscreen is when it's wet. The main purpose I'm looking at the Soft99 Glass Compound is to get rid of water marks.
After using this glass compound, would the glass loses all hydrophobic properties (causing water to stick to it like a film?) or since it's already deep cleaned, will it bead water like crazy? Currently water is already sticking on the windscreen like film which I suspect is due to layers of oil and water marks.
Anyway, would be using the new-found knowledge on a 3 year old black Honda Civic which is mostly parked outside. Definitely going to be a challenge.
You're welcome. When the surface of the glass has been totally cleaned, water will lay flat on the glass, the same as what you are experiencing now. One of the 'marketing techniques' that manufacturers of these glass sealants use is that they claim that you do not need to use your wipers when driving above a certain speed(60-80km/h) since water will just bead up and roll off the glass surface. Although this is true to some extent, wipers still have to be used.
You would want to use a glass compound on the glass to strip off previously applied coatings and make sure water is flat. Then only apply a glass coating, and this promotes better adherence of the coating to the glass(hence better durability). You will get the crazy water beading after applying a water repellant coating(e.g. Rain-X)
Hi Kenneth. You have a great post and I learned alot from your post especially care on car windshield. I have a few questions that I would like to ask for your expertise:
1) The Rainaway product you tested comes with the Water Mark Cleaner?
2) Can 1 unit of the Rainaway product clean and seal for the all 4 sides of glass, or only enough for 1 side (e.g. front windshield)?
Let me clarify that the Rainaway Glass Coating tested here is the professional version. Detailing centres that use this coating will have to purchase a set of products from Rainaway, this includes the glass coating (F1+F2) and a powder based watermark remover and an acid based watermark remover.
For the Clean and Seal DIY version that you mentioned, I'm not sure but I think it should be enough for all for sides. If you think it is not enough, use it on the front and rear windscreen first, since they are the ones which will affect your vision during driving the most.
First of all, great site. Please keep it up!
I've done my Rainaway in a detailing show today. Looks like the product really did help to remove all waterspots. The shop gives 1 year warranty against water spotting.
After a few hours, there's a heavy downpour and the water beads nicely off the windows. However, if I let the water rest, it will still develope watermarks.
Is Rainaway suppose to prevent watermarks? Or is't just only to repel water? Any other product that can PREVENT watermark?
Thanks! The waterspots that you get after a rain is normal. Those are just minerals and pollutants that have been collected by the rainwater as it drops from the sky. As the rain water evaporates, it will leave contaminants and minerals behind. These are easily removed with any glass cleaner, or even with a damp cloth. Or you can just leave it until your next routine car wash.
If left too long however, it will start to etch into the glass, but this will also take some time as glass is very much harder than paint.
From the data I have read, according to Rainaway, their nano glass coating will protect against watermark, whereas an oil-based rain repellant such as Rain-X will only offer little protection.
If you wash your car once a week, your glass treated with Rainaway's glass coating should be watermark free for a year or even more.
Great discussion on this subject matter. Is the Soft 99 Glass Compound a form of Cerium Oxide? AFAIK, Cerium Oxide is the best compound to polish glass since the purpose here is to remove a “layer” of glass from the windscreen (i.e. to remove scratches/water marks etc).
However on a more serious note, wouldn't a glass polish causes waviness across the screen (due to uneven thickness as a result of a glass polish)? There is no way you could remove a layer of glass off with the same level of thickness evenly on your windscreen even if it's by machine. More likely there will be certain parts that you will polish off a bit more and the other parts a little less.
I suspect on such an event, this waviness will cause distortion on the screen causing it to look “blurred” if you look through it. This effect would be more obvious depending on the angle and the light reflection on the screen. To put it simply, a glass polish may “damage” a screen.
Having said that, this is an issue worth pondering on since companies are selling so many products (Soft99 Glass Compound for example) which allows users to unintentionally damage their screen by this method even though the original purpose is to remove other “damages” from the screen to begin with.
Would love to hear other opinions on this matter especially from those who has polished their windscreen before. Perhaps this would warrant an experiment from Kenneth himself? 😉
I'm not sure if it is Cerium Oxide but will assume it is since that is the commonly used ingredient for glass compounds.
Hmmm, you have an interesting theory regarding the possibility of a glass polish causing waviness, which may result in a blurry effect.
But I have it by hand or machine with no ill-effects on the glass. It definitely does not look worse than how they began with.
The same can also be applied to paint compounds and polishes. Since a paint polish removes scratches and swirl marks by abrading a very thin layer of paint away, it may also cause waviness across the paintwork right. And according to your proposed theory, create a blurring effect? Well I have used a number of paint polishes and most of them won't cause the paint to blur, provided application was correct.
However, if you used an old compound which have large abrasives by hand or machine, you would haze up the paint quite easily. The haze is removed by following up with a finer compound/polish.
Companies like Eastwood have been selling Glass polishing kits like this one:
to remove haze and wiper scratches from windscreens for years. The contents of the kit is a felt polishing wheel and some cerium oxide polishing powder, and is meant to be used with a rotary polishing machine. I'm sure a glass compound used by hand would only be a tickle to the glass compared to machine polishing it with a felt wheel.
It is possible to have some unevenness in the layer of glass, but is probably on a microscopic level where our eyes cannot detect. I don't know, I've never looked so closely at the glass before, lol.
Hi Kenneth, what do you think about the possibility of using wax to coat the screen to provide water repellency and hydrophobic effect? Maybe not for the windscreen to prevent smearing when wipers are in used but I think it should be okay for the other screens.
I had this crazy idea of coating my screens with Meguiar Mirror Glaze #16 (M16). I think we both can agreed that M16 beads water like crazy and can provide protection for a couple of months. It worked for the body, maybe it can work for screens as well?
Yup a wax will give you the hydrophobic effect, but the problems with paste waxes is that they tend to 'sit' on the surface and the hydrophobic effect will deteriorate very easily.
A dedicated glass sealant like Rain-X and Rainaway will stay on the glass much longer.
If I recalled correctly, I used M16 on the windscreen before, but had bad wiper juddering. And did not last as long as Rain-X
Hi Ken, love your blog!
My front windscreen is is full of waterspot on it. Can you explain to me how to remove the waterspot?
need your advise here..
currently test out rainaway on car's side mirror..
but the result is bad..
or maybe it's cant be use on the side mirror..
so now the side mirror view is more worse than it's original form without any coating..
any method to remove the rainaway coat or solve this problem? Glass Compound? Clay?
@Syah: Glaco Glass Compound will do the trick here. If you can't find it there, probably 3M Grass Polish sandpaper will help. I think Ken already mentioned in the comments here n also on the blog 🙂
@xEdi: I try not to polish the side mirror for the simple reason that most side mirror are not glass! They are plastic. I suggest you use glass compound on some small corner that you think you don't use so often to test out the effect. Probably application method is wrong like wht Ken did the 1st round. I use a product by Glaco (http://www.soft99.co.jp/en/products/detail/6/088) to coat and very impressive. After 1 month, the effect is still there but not as good as initial coating. There are other products too : http://www.soft99.co.jp/en/products/category/6
Hope you fixed your side mirror. 🙂
BTW, any one knows how to remove doubleside tape remains on the side mirror? Got a faint residue but not very visible. Try Glass Compound at a very soft pressure didn't make it go away 😦
May I know the price of Nano Glass Coating and where you buy it?
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