Never seen before details

Some photos of cars that I have done in the past few months that couldn’t make it into a proper write-up.
Mercedes E Class W124
An old car with a bonnet that has been repainted several times, the heavy oxidation is removed with velvet pads and Osren Perfect Forty compound.
Macro shots of oxidation, pitting and all the accumulated damage over the years.
50/50
After,
Mercedes CLS55 AMG
This car was in for a full job, interior and exterior plus Gtechniq coating. I had a bad time with this car with the paint behind super hard and my Makita breaking down halfway, I stopped taking photos halfway into the detail.
50/50
Carbon fibre grille hand polished
Bonnet coated.
Volkswagen Golf R
Brand new Golf R in for a Gtechniq coat.
Lots of iron particles in the paint, removed with Sonax Extreme Wheel Cleaner.
Coated
Proton Waja
The same car from this detail:
https://wetshine.net/2009/10/19/proton-waja-tuition-detail-and-duragloss-first-impressions/
The car has been repainted and the 3 month old paint has shrunk and showed heavy orange peel, making the whole car looking dull. Reflections restored with the usual Osren velvet pad and Osren P40 compound.
Before,
After,
50/50,
Hyundai Accent
As the detail above, the repainted black paint has shrunk and showed orange peel. Does anyone know why most repaints that cost even up to RM2500 will have this effect? Cheap clearcoat? Lousy prepwork?
Bonnet restored with velvet and P40.
Before:
50/50:
Waxed with Valetpro Banana Wax.
BMW 5-Series F10
Full exterior correction and interior cleaning. Protected with Duragloss twins.
Mazda 6
Same car from here:
https://wetshine.net/2011/03/18/153/
It has been a year and the car is back for a freshen up polish and re-coat with Gtechniq C1. This time round, no heavy compounding was needed, M105 and foam polishing pad was enough to remove a year’s worth of swirls (excluding RIDS). I guess a hard coating does play an important role. Engine was also detailed.
Well that’s about it. Next posts will be the windscreen result test (next week) and then the paint coating test from 1 year ago! Very surprising results, stay tuned. If you can’t wait, here’s the result:
Paint coating test results will be up 2 weeks from now(27 July 2012).
When can i dropby for my Gtechniq coat too?
Yo bro! Haha, SG got many company doing coating leh, no need come all the way up here. 😛
Here got no Sifu Ikan, i need the midas touch from the pro of the elite. :
@gtled, Hahaha! I’ll try to make a trip down there in the next 3-4 months, it’s been a while man.
So glad that now I don’t have to keep re-reading old post.
Quick question: Given the choice, would you still buy the Kacher SE400x extractor or would you purchase a different unit?
Hi Jules, if budget is not a concern I would go for a different model. One that can hold more dirty and clean water. With the current one I can only clean about 1 and a half seat and I have to refill the clean water and throw away the dirty water. Besides that, I would look for one where the water shoots out at a higher pressure, better yet, shoot out steam. There are such machines available but are big and more suited for commercial use. For me, my karcher se4001 gets the job done, although at a slower pace.
Hey Kenneth, Nick here, I said hi last weekend when you were working on the MR-S. 🙂
My E30 actually has the same orange peel paint as on the Waja and Accent above. Coincidentally, the paintjob was also RM2500 some years back.
Would a Megs foam cut pad and M105 be sufficient to fix this? I notice you used velvet + P40 for all of them, but I’m wondering if M105 would work, just with maybe more effort? Thanks!
Hi Nick! Sorry I was kinda blur that day and couldn’t recognize you. For the orange peel, M105 won’t have enough cut, even if you use it with the velvet pad. I actually think the compound plays a bigger role than the pad. P40 + wool will level a bit compared to M105 + velvet which wont level at all, from my limited experience. If you need some P40 or velvet, I can pass some to you when you drop by the next time. 🙂
No worries haha, I decided to just pop over since I saw you working. 🙂
Oh OK, understood. I was hoping M105 would work since the paint on my car is actually very soft (Adler brand). Thanks for the offer, I’ll let you know if I need to get any from you, but I probably won’t have time for any detailing on my limited weekends back haha. Just wondering since it is an issue on my car’s panels that has always bugged me a little.
You could try with the M105, I’ll pass you a velvet pad the next time we get to meet, hehe.
Just curious, the “Duragloss Twins” mentioned is the 501/105 combo, right?
Hi GRexer,
Duragloss Twins refer to #601 Polish Bonding Agent and #105 Total Performance Polish.
Since the prep work was done with other polishes, no need for #501.
Hm.. So, basically, a paint cleaner is not needed when other polishes were used then.
Always see them talking about how durable the 501/105 combo is on other detailing forums and calling them the “DG twins” so I thought you meant the same.
I personally use 501 quite a bit, it’s pretty decent in Malaysian weather, it seems, if we don’t compare to coatings.
I’ve actually never used 501 on it’s own before as I always doubt the durability of AIO products, so I’d rather do a two step instead, a dedicated polish/cleaner followed by a dedicated sealant/wax.
Grexer,
Yes, the 501 is an AIO, it has cleaners and a sealant in it, but I do not need the cleaners since I have done the prep work with a cleaning/abrasive polish earlier on. The #601 will loosen the polish oils and allow the #105 to bond better and cure faster. I tested it and it really prolongs the durability of #105.
very details presentation on your site. GOod job!
Hi, sorry to wake up an old thread. I noticed you used the Sonax Wheel Cleaner on the paint work. I have only seen you take this approach on the internet.
Is that a safe approach ?
WOW, this is awesome. Loved this post. I recently did detailing of my car from Motoring Street in pune, my car looks brand new now.